Textile waste: a global challenge and the role of civil society in confronting it

Textile waste: a global challenge and the role of civil society in confronting it

Introduction

Textile waste is a critical issue from the viewpoint of municipal solid waste (MSW). No longer simply the detritus of consumption, unwanted clothes, fabrics and other textile goods are fast becoming an environmental and social emergency. This has been fuelled by the rise of ‘fast fashion’ and there are now more textiles entering waste streams than ever before. World Cleanup Day 2025 stands to bring this pressing issue into focus, as the world rallies to tackle its various consequences. At the heart is the pivotal role of civil society as a driver of awareness, a call to action and an agent of systemic change.

The Pervasive Threat of Textile Waste

As printed textile demand increases, textile waste has been growing to become a significant and growing part of the world's municipal waste. The fashion industry alone creates around 92 million tons of textile waste every year. This shocking cost is the result of the linear “take, make, waste” system that sees clothes created, worn briefly, and then thrown away. A large proportion of this, around 85%, is currently being disposed to landfills and as a result it represents a long-term environmental risk. Unlike many types of other waste, textiles, and especially synthetic fibers, can take centuries — up to 200 years — to decompose. During their long process of breaking down, they leach toxic chemicals and microplastics into the ground and water, causing pollution and ecosystem damage.
There are also immense economic consequences. This invalidation of resources is costly and the disposal costs, including waste management, incineration, and landfilling, is estimated to be ~$100 billion. The complexities of textile recycling are high, owing to the common blending of fibres plus the inclusion of dyes and finishing chemicals. Internationally, fewer than 0.5% of used textiles are converted into new fibres, pointing to a major circularity problem.

World Cleanup Day 2025: A Focused Approach to Textile Waste

World Cleanup Day, a global movement that mobilizes millions of volunteers, is set to make textile waste a central theme for its 2025 observance. This focused approach aligns with the International Day of Zero Waste 2025, signaling a concerted global effort to tackle this specific waste stream. The initiative aims not only to clean up existing textile pollution but also to foster systemic change toward sustainable production and consumption patterns within the fashion industry. By highlighting textiles, World Cleanup Day 2025 seeks to raise global awareness about the sheer volume and environmental impact of discarded clothing and fabrics, urging individuals, communities, and industries to adopt more responsible practices.

The Vision for Impact

The strategic emphasis on textile waste by World Cleanup Day 2025 aims to:

Mobilize Global Action

Inspire millions of people worldwide to participate in local cleanup activities specifically targeting textile waste, thereby reducing its presence in the environment.

Promote Sustainable Practices

Educate consumers and producers alike on the importance of extending the lifecycle of textiles through reuse, repair, and responsible disposal, moving away from the fast fashion model.

Advocate for Policy Changes

Support calls for stronger regulations, such as Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) frameworks for textiles, and policies that encourage sustainable design and production.

Foster Innovation

Encourage research and development in textile recycling technologies, particularly for blended fabrics, and promote circular economy models within the textile industry.

The Indispensable Role of Civil Society

Civil society, encompassing non-governmental organizations (NGOs), community groups, social enterprises, academic institutions, and individual volunteers, is at the forefront of addressing the textile waste crisis. Their multifaceted contributions are crucial for driving both immediate action and long-term systemic change.

Catalysts for Change: Civil Society's Key Contributions

Civil society organizations play a pivotal role in shaping public opinion, influencing policy, and implementing practical solutions. Their efforts range from grassroots initiatives to global advocacy campaigns.

Awareness and Education

Civil society groups are instrumental in raising public awareness about the environmental and social consequences of textile production and consumption. Through educational campaigns, workshops, and public outreach, they inform consumers about the impacts of fast fashion and promote conscious consumption habits. This includes highlighting the benefits of slow fashion, clothing swaps, and secondhand markets, which extend the life cycle of garments.

Direct Action and Mobilization

World Cleanup Day itself is a testament to civil society's capacity for mass mobilization. NGOs and community groups organize and participate in large-scale cleanup initiatives, actively removing textile waste from the environment. These efforts not only clean up pollution but also foster a sense of community responsibility and encourage lasting behavioral change. Many organizations also run collection points, repair cafés, and donation programs that divert textiles from landfills .

Policy Advocacy and Corporate Accountability

Civil society organizations are powerful advocates for policy changes that encourage a more circular economy in the textile sector. They lobby governments for regulations such as Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR), which holds manufacturers accountable for the end-of-life management of their products. They also push for stricter controls on hazardous chemicals in textile production and advocate for green textile standards. Collaborations with regulatory bodies and industry stakeholders aim to improve sorting and recycling infrastructure and monitor progress toward waste reduction targets. In the EU, civil society groups have been particularly influential in shaping textile policies and promoting sustainable practices.

Fostering Circularity and Innovation

Beyond advocacy, civil society actively promotes and implements solutions aligned with circular economy principles. This includes supporting initiatives focused on designing for durability, repairability, and recyclability. They also champion innovative solutions like chemical recycling processes that can handle blended fabrics and remove harmful substances, envisioning a future where textile waste is transformed into valuable resources .

Supporting Informal Workers

In many regions, informal workers play a crucial role in textile collection and sorting. Civil society organizations work to support these workers, ensuring their well-being, promoting fair labor practices, and integrating them into formal recycling systems. This not only enhances waste management efficiency but also fosters social equity and community resilience.

Collaboration and Partnerships

The effectiveness of civil society efforts is greatly enhanced through collaboration. They actively seek partnerships with governments, the private sector, and international organizations to implement coordinated voluntary actions. This collaborative approach amplifies the impact of cleanup efforts globally and ensures that solutions are holistic and sustainable.

Pathways to a Circular Textile Economy

Moving towards a circular textile economy is essential to mitigate the impact of textile waste. This involves shifting from the traditional linear model to one where materials are kept in use for as long as possible.

The Scale of the Challenge and Opportunities for Intervention

To further contextualize the problem, consider the immense volume of textile waste generated and the relatively small proportion currently recycled. The following table provides key statistics related to global textile waste, highlighting the critical need for robust interventions.

Metric

Global Annual Figure

Implication

Textile Waste Generation

~92 million tons

Massive volume requiring urgent waste management solutions.

Textile Waste to Landfill

~85% of generated waste

Significant environmental pollution and resource loss.

Textile Waste Recycled into New Fibers

<0.5%

Indicates a severe lack of circularity in the industry.

Decomposition Time (Synthetic Textiles)

Up to 200 years

Long-term environmental burden in landfills.

Economic Loss (Discarded Textiles)

~$100 billion annually

Represents wasted material value and disposal costs.

The statistics underscore that current practices are unsustainable. The economic and environmental costs of the linear fashion model are staggering, emphasizing the need for transformative change.

Understanding the Fast Fashion Impact

The rise of fast fashion has significantly intensified the textile waste crisis. This model, characterized by rapid production cycles, low prices, and frequent trend changes, encourages excessive consumption and premature disposal. Consumers are incentivized to buy more and discard quickly, leading to a constant influx of cheap, often low-quality, garments into the waste stream.

Challenges in Textile Recycling

  • Even with growing awareness, recycling textiles remains challenging. The primary hurdles include:
  • Most garments are made from blends of natural and synthetic fibers (e.g., cotton and polyester), making them difficult to separate and recycle using current mechanical processes.
  • The presence of various dyes, coatings, and chemical finishes on textiles complicates recycling processes and can introduce contaminants into recycled materials.
  • Despite some advancements, the global infrastructure for collecting, sorting, and processing textile waste for recycling is still largely inadequate.
  • Developing cost-effective and scalable recycling technologies for diverse textile waste streams remains a significant challenge, often making new production cheaper than recycling.
  • The following bar chart provides an opinionated assessment of the commitment levels of different stakeholder groups towards sustainable textile practices. The scale ranges from 0 to 10, with higher values indicating stronger commitment.